The Uninhabited Channel Islet
Tucked directly in the Comino Channel between Malta and Gozo, Comino (Maltese: Kemmuna) covers a mere 3.5 square kilometers. Named after the wild cumin plant (kemmūn) that scents its garrigue hillsides in spring, the islet is virtually car-free and home to a resident population of fewer than five individuals.
Comino is historically celebrated as both an impenetrable pirate lair and an isolated garrison post. Today, it stands as a designated nature reserve and bird sanctuary (Natura 2000), protected from commercial real-estate development. Its rugged limestone plateau drops steeply into subterranean caverns, sea caves, and turquoise shallows.
The Blue Lagoon: Timing and Realities
The Blue Lagoon (Bejn il-Kmiemen, literally "Between the Cominos") is a narrow strait of brilliant cyan and turquoise water separating Comino from the tiny uninhabited islet of Cominotto. With its floor composed of pure white quartz sand and bright sun-reflecting limestone, the lagoon creates an aquatic coloration comparable to the Caribbean.
Because of its global fame, the lagoon experiences intense tourist influx during midday hours in summer months. To experience its natural splendor without congestion:
- The Early Morning Window (08:00 – 10:30): Board the earliest ferry out of Ċirkewwa or Marfa. The water is glassy, underwater visibility exceeds 30 meters, and the shoreline rocks are peaceful.
- The Late Afternoon Period (16:30 – 19:30): Large organized tour boats depart around 16:00, leaving the lagoon bathed in warm golden light as the sun dips toward Gozo.
- Midday Alternative: Swim across the channel to Cominotto's small sandy beach or explore the underwater rock arches with a snorkel.
Beyond the Blue Lagoon: Hidden Bays & Watchtowers
Visitors rarely venture beyond the concrete landing jetty of the Blue Lagoon, yet walking just twenty minutes along Comino's dusty trails reveals remarkable serenity:
- Santa Marija Bay: Located on the north coast, this shallow sandy bay features clear calm water, shade-giving tamarisk trees, and a small chapel dedicated to the Return of the Holy Family from Egypt (first recorded in 1296).
- San Niklaw Bay: A sheltered cove with vibrant blue waters, ideal for snorkeling along cliff crevices where octopus and bream shelter.
- Saint Mary’s Tower (Torri ta’ Santa Marija): Erected in 1618 by Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt as part of a chain of coastal defense towers. This imposing limestone fortress sits 80 meters above sea level, providing defensive fire control over the channel. When the flag is flying, volunteers invite travelers inside to examine the thick stone walls and climb to the observation roof.
- Santa Marija Battery: Constructed in 1715 facing the South Comino Channel, retaining its semi-circular gun platform with several original 24-pounder iron cannons pointing seaward.
| Location on Comino | Atmosphere | Walking Time from Jetty | Amenities |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blue Lagoon | Vibrant, crowded at peak, scenic | 0 minutes (arrival port) | Kiosks, restrooms, lockers |
| Santa Marija Bay | Quiet, family-friendly, sandy | 20–25 minutes | Public restrooms, quiet beach |
| St. Mary’s Tower | Historic, windswept, dramatic | 20 minutes uphill | Historic exhibits when open |
| Cominotto Reef | Wild, open-water snorkeling | 5-min swim across channel | None (wilderness rock) |
Essential Gear and Environmental Care
Comino has no pharmacies, general stores, or shaded roads. Travelers should carry high-SPF mineral sunscreen (which protects marine corals), a refillable water container, lightweight headwear, and sturdy water shoes. The limestone rocks surrounding the lagoon can be sharp, and stepping onto sea urchins in rocky shallows requires vigilance. Take all personal waste back to the main island to protect this fragile sanctuary.