Gozo: Rural Plateaus, Salt Pans & Citadels

The Character and Geography of Gozo

Located five kilometers northwest of Malta, Gozo (known locally as Għawdex) spans 67 square kilometers of rolling hills, flat-topped limestone tablelands, and dramatic coastal cliffs. In stark contrast to the dense urban sprawl of mainland Malta, Gozo maintains a decidedly agrarian rhythm, where traditional stone dry-walls enclose terraced vegetable plots and fishing communities follow centuries-old routines.

Arrival on Gozo occurs exclusively through the picturesque natural port of Mġarr Harbour, where incoming car ferries and high-speed passenger catamarans maneuver past the hillside church of Our Lady of Lourdes and Fort Chambray.

Victoria (Rabat) and the Fortified Cittadella

At the exact geographical heart of Gozo lies Victoria, commonly referred to by its older Maltese name, Rabat. Looming directly above the central piazza stands the magnificent Cittadella (The Citadel), a fortified acropolis occupied continuously since the Bronze Age.

Following devastating corsair raids in 1551 during which almost the entire population was taken into captivity, the Knights rebuilt the Cittadella's massive limestone bastions. Today, the restored fortress features:

• The Cathedral of the Assumption: An early 18th-century Baroque church designed by Lorenzo Gafà. Due to funding constraints during construction, the cathedral lacks a raised exterior dome; instead, visitors marvel at an extraordinary trompe-l'œil ceiling fresco that creates a perfect illusion of an interior dome.
• The Rampart Walkway: A 360-degree perimeter path providing sweeping panoramic views across the whole island, from Marsalforn in the north to the channel cliffs facing Comino.
• The Old Prison: Used by the Knights to incarcerate unruly members—including Jean Parisot de Valette in his youth—with cells covered in original historic graffito carved by prisoners.

Ġgantija Temples: Prehistoric Megaliths

In the village of Xagħra stands the megalithic complex of Ġgantija, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Dating between 3600 BC and 3200 BC, these twin structures predate both Stonehenge and the Egyptian Pyramids by centuries.

Constructed from massive Coralline limestone blocks—some exceeding five meters in length and weighing more than fifty tons—the site derives its name from the Maltese word ġgant (giant), reflecting local folklore that giants built these colossal cloverleaf-shaped sanctuaries to worship a fertility mother goddess.

Coasts, Coves & Salt Pans

Gozo's coastline is punctuated by extraordinary geological formations and scenic swimming areas:

• Dwejra Bay & The Inland Sea (Il-Qawra): Although the famed Azure Window arch collapsed during a severe winter gale in 2017, Dwejra remains a geological wonder. The Inland Sea is a circular lagoon connected to the open sea via a narrow 60-meter limestone tunnel through which small fishing boats pass. Nearby lies the Blue Hole, a legendary 15-meter-deep vertical underwater sinkhole favored by international divers.
• Ramla Bay: Famed across the Mediterranean for its distinctive burnt-terracotta red sand. Surrounded by fertile agrarian cliffs, it is overlooked by the legendary Calypso Cave mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey.
• Xwejni Bay Salt Pans: A three-kilometer coastal checkerboard of 350-year-old rock-cut salt pans where local families still scrape sea salt during the summer months, dried by Mediterranean sun and wind.
• Wied il-Għasri: A secluded, winding fjord-like sea canyon flanked by steep limestone crags leading to a tiny shingle beach.

Getting to Gozo: Ferry Details

Travelers have two primary ferry options to reach Gozo:

• Gozo Channel Line (Ċirkewwa to Mġarr): Operates 24/7 every 45 minutes (every 30 mins during peak periods). Carries foot passengers, bicycles, and motor vehicles. Foot passenger ticketing is collected exclusively upon departure from Gozo back to Malta.
• Valletta Fast Ferry: High-speed passenger-only catamarans departing from the Grand Harbour Barrakka Ferry Terminal directly to Mġarr in approximately 45 minutes, equipped with indoor climate-controlled seating and upper open observation decks.